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Diamond Shapes 101: Step Cut Diamond Shapes

March 13, 2019
Diamond Shapes 101: Step Cut Diamond Shapes

In this part of our Diamond Shapes 101 series, we will discuss the ten most popular diamond shapes and take an in-depth look at emeralds and asschers.

Popular Diamond Shapes

Throughout history, the round brilliant cut diamond has remained the most popular choice for engagement rings. The brilliant cutting technique has led to the creation of modified brilliant cuts — radiant, oval, pear, and cushion — with comparable sparkle.

Fancy cuts like the princess, marquise, and heart shapes allow women to choose something nontraditional. While these cuts may look exceedingly rare and valuable, don’t worry about them breaking the bank; they are less expensive than rounds of similar quality.

This post focuses on step cut diamonds like emeralds and asschers. These styles are characterized by sharp edges and stepped facets that draw the eye to the diamond’s center.

Emerald Cut Diamonds

Named after the preferred cut for the jungle green gemstone, emerald-cut diamonds boast an elegant, elongated shape. This style is not intended for brides who live for glitter; the long parallel lines within each emerald create a hall of mirrors effect.

Fans of vintage style are likely to love an emerald-cut diamond. Classic beauty Grace Kelly famously sported the shape in the mid-20th century. The uber-popular fashion is back in style today with celebrities like Beyoncé and Angelina Jolie wearing the vintage-inspired shape.

This versatile classic is also great for modern brides. The step-cut facets lend a sleek appeal to the timeless silhouette. The engagement ring setting can be used to play up the emerald’s clean structure.

Emerald-cut diamonds are frequently paired with baguette accents. This combination of two step cut diamonds creates continuity in the ring’s overall appearance. For more sparkle, try a setting with round brilliant-cut pavé or accent diamonds. Minimalists rejoice; a plain metal band can give a long emerald solitaire a chance to shine.

Asscher Cut Diamonds

The asscher diamond takes its name from its creator Joseph Asscher. The squared shape is characterized by an “X” visible in the center of its stepped facets.

Most step cut diamonds are excellent choices for brides who like vintage jewelry. This shape has retained its rare status and Art Deco inspiration since its creation in 1902, but celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor helped it achieve notoriety. Her famous Krupp diamond, a 33.19 carat asscher, was known around the world for its massive size.

Like other step-cut styles, the asscher cut also works well in modern settings for individualistic brides because it is so different from sparkling brilliant cuts. Take the Krupp diamond, for instance. The shape and cut created a diamond that appeared to be ahead of its time. In addition to its sleek stepped facets, asschers have the “X” in their tables that can look almost futuristic.

Because asschers are so unusual, designers often use them to create truly one-of-a-kind engagement rings. They may rotate the asscher to create a four-point diamond shape and then surround it with a halo of baguettes. Others might place them in a setting that minimizes their edges, creating the illusion of a round diamond with the distinctive asscher “X.”

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